TASTEMAKERS
Paso Wineries Where the Winemaker Pours
From Spill
16 wineries
At a certain size the winemaker stops being in the room. Not for any bad reason, there is simply too much to do and too many people coming through. Paso Robles has an unusual number of places that never crossed that line.
We asked which ones, and the answers were all small.
01
Who came up
Bushong Vintage, Ultima Tulie, Desparada, Clos Solene and Lopai Cellars, the last of which told us to look them up, which we did. Somebody also named Clesi and Aron Hill, neither of which is in our data yet, and that is on us to fix.
02
Why it changes the tasting
You get the actual answer. Not the trained answer. Ask why the 2022 is picked earlier than the 2021 and you hear about a specific week of weather rather than a house style. Ask what did not work and you sometimes get told.
There is also less performance. A winemaker pouring their own wine at three in the afternoon in a shed off Adelaida Road is not running a hospitality script.
03
The trade
Small operations keep small hours. Several of these are open a few days a week, some by appointment only, and harvest closes doors that are otherwise open. That is the cost of the thing you came for, because the person pouring is also the person on the crush pad.
Check current hours on each Spill page before you drive out. Then go early, and do not be in a rush.
04
What to ask when you get the chance
Skip the tasting-note questions, the sheet already has those. Ask what changed between two vintages of the same wine and why. Ask what they picked earlier or later than they wanted and what forced it. Ask which barrel they nearly did not blend in.
You get real answers at this scale, including the unflattering ones, and that is the whole reason to seek these places out.
05
The practical shape of a day
Two stops, maybe three. Small operations run small hours, several are appointment only, and the person you came to meet is also the person on the crush pad from late August through October.
Book ahead where you can, and treat a confirmed appointment as more important here than at a large estate, because there is no second staff member to cover.
06
On the two we are missing
Clesi and Aron Hill were both named and neither is in our data. That is a gap on our side rather than a comment on them.
07
